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Memory


The tabby fabric

Appeared in historical documents as fas back as 12th century in Andalusia, Spain. The fabric was said to have been an imitation of silks manufactured in the Arabian Peninsula, paticularly those made in Iraq and Persia, namely Attabiya district in Baghdad. The taffeta fabric was commonly made of cotton or silk and used in variety of purposes. In plain weave cloth the warp and weft threads cross at right angles, forming a simple criss-cross pattern. Also called for linen weave, it now uses range from heavy and coarse canvas and blankets to the lightest and finest cambries and muslins. Chiffon, organza, percale and taffeta are also plain weave fabrics.

Broadcloth

Was first produced in Flanders (Laken in Flemish) in the 11th century and throughout the medieval period. After 1400  Leiden in Holland became the most important place for broadcloth industry in Europe. There for the first time the production became industialised. This means that the production process didn´t take place entirely in one single factory anymore but according to a precise task allocation, where in several stages the intermediate goods were produced. The entire process was strictly supervised, resulting in constantly high quality, making Leiden broadcloth very popular.

Salampore

From the time of governorship of Thomas Munro (1761-1827) the Government of Madras was determined to cultivate economically useful bourbon cotton in Salem and Coimbatore, Madras Presidency. Four cotton farms of 400 acres each were established in Tinnevelly, Coimbatore, Masulipatnam and Visakhapatnam. The produce from Coimbatore, 500 bales of 300 lb each, were sent to China for sale. In spite of the difficulties, between 1848 and 1858, the soil types suitable for cotton cultivation were scientifically established in the districts of Cuddapah, Madura, Tinnevelly and Coimbatore.

Johann Ludwig von Knoop

Baron von Knoop (1821 - 1894) was a cotton merchant and entrepreneur from the city-state Free Hanseatic City of Bremen, who became one of the richest entrepreneurs in his time. He was created a Baron by Alexander the II of Russia. Von Knoop went to Moscow as assistant to agent Franz Holzhauer from De Jersey & Co in Manchester in 1840. That year he established the first power-driven cotton mill in Russia. In 1857 von Knoop built the largest cotton spinning mill in Europe on the island of Kreenholm at Narva, Estonia, which employed 4500 people. Eventually he was responsible for equipping 187 cotton mills on Russian territory. A city park created from his estate is named after him in Bremen. Mansion of von Knoop in Moscow will now be restored.

Oxford Cloth

The thing that defines Oxford cloth is not it´s material but the style of it´s weave.  Oxford cloth has a basket weave structure and a lustrous aspekt making it popular fabric for dress shirts.  During the early 19th century the heart of European textile production was in Scotland.  One mill (name unknown) was experimenting with new weaves.  The modern Oxford shirt (that is early 1900s) was a popular choice as formal shirt.  It was often seen with the ties and suits and became sort of unofficial uniform for those lucky enough to attend polo matches of the day. This gave the shirt kind of aristocratic air, and Ivy League students adopted it as their own.  The students re-styled the shirt by wearing it un-tucked and paired it with shorts. This look became popular casual style range, incorporating Oxford shirt.